On Top of the World:
The 2008 North Pole And Solar Eclipse Voyage
on the Nuclear Icebreaker I/B “Yamal”
The 2008 North Pole And Solar Eclipse Voyage
on the Nuclear Icebreaker I/B “Yamal”
Approach to Franz Joseph Land and the first two landings
During the course of the voyage we were given a friendly wake up call by Viktor (Russian and English) and Christine (German) with Breakfast generally at 8am to 9am. Lectures on various aspects of the Arctic were given during the day depending on the situation. If for example someone spotted a Whale, Polar Bear , Walrus or anything special then it was usually announced during the daytime and so occasionally the lecture was suspended whilst the passengers and Expedition team viewed the object of the alert.
We approached Franz Joseph Land on the 25th July and immediately launched into the first landing taking us to Bell Island by Helicopter. Everyone was given a number for the duration of the voyage and on leaving the ship you had to turn your numbered tag so that it displayed the red side - meaning you were off the ship and onshore. On returning the tag is turned back to silver indicating you had returned - not everyone got it right!! Bell island is volcanic with dramatic arctic scenery and little vegetation apart from an Artic Poppy but there was some bird life, Kittiakes and Arctic Skuas were present.
Later that day our second landing took us to Cape Flora where it was clear it got its name from the more abundant vegetation of mosses, some grasses and saxifrages as well as the arctic poppy. We found a large rock where Glaucous Gulls kept dive bombing those who got too close to their chicks - especially the chicks on a high rock. This was also the site where an historic meeting between polar explorers took place. Nansen had tried to reach the North Pole but failed and struggled back to civilisation. Almost dead he chanced upon another explorer on the deserted island, Johnson, who effectively saved Nansen - there is a monument to them here and Christine and Alexander re-enacted the meeting with Marie looking on with the original picture of the historic event. We spotted our first signs of Polar Bear activity when we discovered ‘droppings’ which were from the previous summer but did indicate they ventured onto the island. In search of astronomy Paul spotted the ‘Last Quarter Moon’ hanging near cliffs dominated by Brunnich’s Guillemots. A great pair of landings as our adventure was unfolding.